Autumn is nearly here and with it comes the season for planting fruit trees.  Bare root fruit trees are best; they have been field grown and tend to be larger, healthier and stronger than container grown trees and there is no risk of their being pot-bound.  Here are twelve easy to follow tips that will help ensure your fruit trees establish, grow away well and crop heavily.

Before ordering be aware of fruit tree pollination - make sure the varieties you are buying are either self-fertile or will pollinate one another.  When your plants are delivered check to make sure you have the varieties (and shapes) you ordered.  Inspect each tree for broken or torn roots and branches; damage does happen when plants are lifted and transported and trees do not not seem to mind (unless it is very severe), but trim damaged roots and stems with a sharp pair of secateurs. As with pruning, clean cuts significantly lessen the chance of disease.

Make your planting hole square.  Fruit tree roots sometimes prefer to stay in the comfort of the enriched soil close to the trunk.  If the hole is round, you can get exactly the same effect as if the tree was pot bound – it grows away well, but in a couple of years it starts to go downhill…square planting holes prevent roots from “circling” and so are better for root development.

Dig a planting hole which is comfortably large enough for the roots of the tree – I always advise a hole 1 metre across and just deep enough to plant the tree so it ends up in the soil at the same level as it was growing before it was lifted (you can always see the “high water mark” left by the earth from its previous growing ground. Reserve the topsoil from the hole.  This is best kept back for when you are filling in round the tree’s roots. The stuff that is not so good will end up back in the bottom of the hole…

Now the earth is out of the ground, improve it by mixing it with well rotted manure or good compost. Both improve the structure of your soil which ensures good drainage and moisture retention (the soil stays damp for longer without ever being waterlogged). If you are on clay, mix in grit, sharp horticultural sand or even straw to make the drainage better.  A small handful of bone meal at the same time does not go amiss either.

Use mycorrhizae.  These are the friendly fungi that associate with tree roots and act as an additional root system, exchanging water and nutrients with waste products (mainly starches) from the tree. They really do make a difference and help get your tree off to a flying start.  If you buy mycorrhizae in gel form, the roots should be dipped in it.  If it comes as a powder you can just add it into the planting mixture along with the compost.

Once you have taken the earth out, start putting it back, but slowly.  Always make a small mound in the centre of the planting hole on which to put the roots of your fruit tree. This lifts them off the compacted bottom, prevents them water-logging and so stops them rotting before they have established and started to grow.

Before you put the rest of the planting mix back, but with someone holding the tree upright in the hole, just walk away so you can look at your fruit from a distance.  This way you can see that you have planted it so it looks its best. Fruit trees live a long time and it would be really boring for you to spend the rest of your life looking at it and saying “if only I had planted it so that branch didn’t……”

No one has had to do much watering this summer but remember that despite the weather doing our work in 2008 one year soon we will see the sun and people and trees will begin to complain at the lack of rain.  When that time comes, fruit trees in particular need water as their fruit cannot swell without. So make provision for watering. A good tip is to bury a bit of drainpipe or drainage hose while you are planting your fruit tree so that it is easy for you to get water to the roots in times of need. Not as pretty, but just as effective is cutting the bottom off a 4 litre milk container, taking the top off and sinking it upside down in the planting hole

Now put the rest of the improved soil back, making sure you use the best bits closest to the trunk and roots to give your tree the best possible start.  Firm it down with the ball of your foot as you go, but never stamp.

It is a good idea to guard your tree. Not because it will get eaten, but deer and rabbits will try to eat the bark, cats will sharpen their claw on it and strimmers and lawnmowers can take chunks out of it.  Not only do these wounds reduce a fruit tree’s ability to crop, they are also potential points of entry for disease and prevention is always easier and better than cure.

Always use a stake and a good tree tie to keep fruit trees steady while they are establishing.  You can get rid of them after the second year.  The stake should be like an iceberg – most of it under ground and the tie should be used low down – never more than one third up the tree, otherwise if there is a gale, the head can break off because the trunk cannot bend in the wind.

Finally, either put a biodegradable hemp mulch mat on the ground around the trunk, or put down a good thick layer of organic mulch (bark chippings, leaf mould). Either will reduce weed competition (the mat removes it entirely) and both help water retention.

Plant your fruit tree well and every year it will provide you with a tangible reminder of a job well done!

About the author
John Plantsman owns and runs a nursery growing and selling bare root fruit trees, soft fruit, hedging & ornamental trees. He is an authority on fruit trees, their propagation, planting and care.

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com/Article/Twelve-Top-Tips-to-Fruit-Tree-Planting-Success/517886

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Transplanting trees and shrubs is a harrowing task especially when the plants are awake. Hence, the best part of the year to transplant them is early spring, as their dormancy begins with the onset of winter or fall and continues till the atmosphere warms up in spring. It is important to ensure that the transplanting is done while the trees are dormant and it is generally safe to undertake the process till the buds are green and puffy. However, once new leaves begin to sprout, you will have to wait till the next winter.

Nevertheless, for successful transplanting, it is important to follow a set of simple rules that keep in view the basic needs of the plants. Following these rules will not only help you to transplant better, but also ensure adequate care of the plants during their relocation in the garden.

During the transplantation process you need to dig out the shrubs with their entire root system. This makes it important to ensure that the roots are out of the ground for the bare minimum period and that they are always kept damp while outside. While replanting the shrubs, ensure that there is no air pocket around the roots. It is advisable to dig out an orb of the earth along with the plant roots to avoid keep them healthy while out of the ground.

Transplantation is never possible without hurting some roots or cutting some roots. Hence, if such a situation arises, don’t dither over cutting some roots, but ensure that while the main roots are protected, the other are not cut too short. Remember, pruning or methodical cutting of some roots during transplantation helps to stimulate the root system of the tree or shrub. Once these roots are severed, the plant develops new lateral roots that are more fibrous and have more aptitude to absorb water and other nutrients.

Here are a few additional tips on transplantation:

•    It is best to undertake transplantation during a cool, cloudy and humid weather as it helps the plants to preserve moisture when they are out of the ground.

•    Soak the trees or shrubs a day or two before the transplant so that when you dig them out the soil is soft and not root is damaged. As the same time, it helps you to get an orb of mud along with the roots.

•    Dig the new plant hole in advance and make it deeper and wider enough for the plant to get adequate space. Remove all stones and debris from the sub-soil and replace it with rich topsoil or compost. Once this is ready, dig out the plant and transplant it without wasting much time. Water the plant regularly so that it gets established fast.

Maximus Stein is an avid gardener and advocate of using WORX Yard Tools, and the WORX GT lawn trimmer.

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com/Article/How-To-Transplant-Trees-&-Shrubs/549823

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Caring for fruit trees is a continual process. For most gardeners, winter months provide opportunities for composting and pruning, while spring, summer and fall are times for nurturing fruit trees. The basics of fruit tree care include proper hydration, feeding, and pruning.

Hydrating Your Fruit Trees

Proper hydration is essential for high-yielding fruit trees. When watering fruit trees, it is necessary to calculate the drip line.  The drip line is determined by estimating the distance of the farthest-reaching leaves of the fruit tree. If the branches extend six feet from the trunk of the tree, the drip line is calculated by drawing a circle in the soil around the trunk of the tree with a diameter of twelve feet.  The drip line is the outer limit that the tree would protect you from getting wet if you were standing underneath the branches during a light rain shower.

The drip line is where your fruit tree draws most of its nutrients and moisture. This is where most of the tree’s feeder roots are located. When watering your fruit trees, direct the spray at the drip line of each fruit tree to provide optimal hydration.

Mulching Your Fruit Trees

Mulching the soil surrounding your fruit trees provides a constant source of nutrients. A thick layer of organic mulch should be applied to the ground surrounding each fruit tree every spring after feeding the tree with minerals and plant food along the drip line. This provides fresh nutrients for the tree that are used throughout the growing season.  A depth of three to six inches of mulch is ideal. The mulch ring should extend beyond the drip line of each tree by one to three feet to provide optimal nutrition. It is not necessary to mulch up to the base of tree trunk since most feeder roots extend out to the drip line. Organic mulch helps provide protection from diseases and pests and the decomposing mulch releases organic nutrients into the soil on a regular basis.

Pruning Your Fruit Trees

Pruning your fruit trees is a necessary and delicate procedure. Prune too little, and your tree’s energy is diverted from producing lush fruit. Prune too much, and your tree goes into shock and fails to produce fruit at all. Vigorous pruning of fruit trees should take place during the dormant winter months. Trees that bloom late in the season, like apple trees, should be pruned first, and trees that bloom early should be pruned last. Summer pruning involves carefully cutting back new growth to divert nutrients into the tree’s fruit.

Types of Pruning Cuts

There are three basic types of pruning cuts for fruit trees.
The Thinning Cut- This is a non-invigorating type of pruning that removes a branch completely at the root of origin.  This type of cut is also referred to as a weeding cut or thinning the tree.

The Heading Cut- The heading cut is a type of pruning cut that removes the ends of a shoot. This encourages lower growth and results in a bushy, wider tree.

The Bench Cut- This is a type of extensive pruning and should be used with caution. The bench cut opens the center of the tree by removing upright branches and can damage a fruit tree if not done properly.

Caring for your fruit trees takes time, patience, and dedication, but the rewards are spectacular. A well cared for fruit tree produces bountiful, nutritious fruit year after year. These tips and basic principles of fruit tree care will help you grow your best fruit crop ever.

Michelle Torres has nearly 20 years experience using and designing greenhouses and is an avid gardener. You can find additional useful information about greenhouses and greenhouse gardening at http://www.greenhousecatalog.com

Article Source: http://www.articledashboard.com/Article/Tips-on-Caring-for-Fruit-Trees/400428

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Dallas - With temperatures soaring into the triple digits, drying winds and lack of rainfall, the Texas Trees Foundation receives calls daily from area residents asking the question, “How much water do I need to apply to my new and existing trees?”

Seventy percent of all water usage is in the landscape and much of that water never reaches the roots of the trees.  The majority of tree roots are in the top 12-18″ of soil.  So, you must saturate the soil to water your tree.  Sprinkling your lawn won’t provide the amount of water needed to nurture your trees.

A typical shade tree can evaporate, or sweat, approximately 50-70 gallons of water a day.  This “mist” is what helps us feel cooler and coupled with the shade makes our outdoor experience more enjoyable on a hot summer day.

Summer tree care is important.  The Texas Trees Foundation has some basic guidelines to ensure the survival of our most important plant - trees.

Water trees at night with an open end hose and slowly trickle water  until the soil is saturated to a depth of 12-18″ of soil.  Since most of the trees roots are in the top 12-18″ of soil it’s important to move the hose to different areas under the drip line of the tree. The drip line of a tree is an imaginary circular line following the furthest limits of the trees branches.

Water newly planted trees at the base of the tree making sure to saturate the entire root ball area.  Water as needed, perhaps as often as twice a week during the first two years after planting and mulch with a minimum of 4″ of mulch to help retain the moisture.

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Fortunately, there are some trees that thrive in the Texas weather even though that weather can vary in different parts of Texas. For example there may be some trees that do much better in Southern Texas than in Northern Texas. Texas Wholesale Trees can help you with all of your tree needs.

When you are looking at trees it is good to make sure that there are no signs of visible wounds on the tree trunk, that the branches are firmly attached, and that there are no signs of insect infection. These are the mere basics of finding healthy trees.

When it comes to Live Oak trees here are a few tips for you to make your endeavor a bit easier. Live Oaks are really magnificent trees and grow 40-80 feet tall and can spread as wide as 60-100 feet. They tend to thrive in well drained clay loams and are not meant to be planted in sand or in poorly drained soil. This tree is an excellent landscape tree but keep in mind that is does not do well in consecutively cold weather. It is however very tolerant to city conditions which may make it an excellent choice to line city highways.

The Crape Myrtle is another tree that does very well in Texas even though it is a Chinese import. It usually tops out at about 25 feet and can thrive in most soil types as well. This tree is very drought resistant so keep that in mind when choosing which location to plant in. This is also a flowering tree, usually blooming in July and continuing on until frost.

Pine trees are trees that you might want to approach with a bit more caution when planning to plant in Texas. There are several species of the pine tree but the one that seems to do the best, which actually resembles the Scotch pine or the most traditional Christmas tree, is the Pinus eldarica. This is a very tough pine tree that adapts well in many diverse climates but has thrived in severe drought and extreme heat.

Texas Wholesale Trees can provide the trees that will allow you to put that finishing touch on a job well done.

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There are a few different types of Maple trees that are grown in Texas. The Big tooth Maple is actually native to Texas and offers a moderate amount of shade. This tree grows best in alkaline soils and is good for moist, well-drained limestone soils. It also offers a beautiful assortment of colors in the fall. There is also the Japanese maple tree that adapts well in regions of Texas but this is a smaller tree that grows rather slowly. The only problem with using this type of tree for commercial purposes is that it does require some maintenance to develop to its full beauty and it thrives in well drained soil. There is the Red Maple tree in Texas and this tree grows quite large so it is good filler for commercial purposes. This tree grows very quickly and is ideal for use by builders and contractors alike.

The Crape Myrtle is a very common tree grown in Texas. It is very unique and very beautiful. Unlike other trees the Crape Myrtle has a look all of its own. It is a smaller tree in comparison to the Live Oak and other sprawling trees but it is a very popular choice and can liven up just about any highway or subdivision. The Crape Myrtle is a very fragrant tree that produces spikes of white, purple, and pink flowers. It can tolerate salty soil and spray back from the salt of the sea so it is adaptable just about anywhere.

These are just a few of the trees that work very well in Texas for commercial building purposes. It is the little touches that are added into or around a new subdivision or a new strip of commercial property that give it nice curb appeal. The beauty of a new tree that will stand in that very spot for generations to come is an added extra that truly makes any new construction complete.

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Planting trees is one of the easiest yet effective means of giving your garden or your yard a face-lift.  Trees can provide shade during summertime and protect you from harsh, chilly winds in the winter.  Aside from these, they can also add to the privacy of your home while boosting real estate values.  There are plenty of choices if you re planning to plant a tree.  These depend on the size, shape, growth habits and care needed, so choose carefully, because the tree you pick will have long-lasting consequences.

When selecting a tree, the first step is to decide what kind of tree is suitable for your property and your needs.  Climate and soil are important factors to consider.  For example, if you plant a date palm, it might have difficulty surviving the winter season in Chicago.  And planting a willow that always needs an ample supply of water would not be a good idea if you’re living in a perennially dry climate.  The tree species you are planning to get should be able to flourish in your local climate and soil conditions (designated hardiness zone).

Another important factor in selecting a tree is matching it to the surrounding locality.  Think about the size of the area within which your new tree will be situated.  Will that spindly sapling you just bought still be able to fit after 20 or 30 years?  Conversely, a willow or an oak tree, both of which grow very large when mature, may be not the best tree to plant in a small front lawn in the city.  The proximity of the tree to the surrounding houses, buildings, sidewalks, driveways, utility lines, and septic systems should also be considered.  If a tree is not planted in an appropriate area, the overhanging branches and extensive root growth may cause damage to nearby adjacent properties and utility lines, and incur you sizeable expenses in the bargain.

Another issue to keep in mind is the drainage.  Good quality, well-drained loam soil is best for planting young trees.  Poorly-drained planting sites will give you problems, since many tree species, including firs, beeches, yellowwoods, oaks and yews will not be able to handle “wet feet”.  Avoid areas where stagnant water pools around roots, since this can lead to “root rot” caused by lack of oxygen.  To test the drainage of a planting area, dig a hole and fill it with water.  After a couple of hours, the water should have drained away.  If not, you may have problems with drainage.  If this is the case, you can plant trees in raised beds of 12 to 18 inches of good quality topsoil to solve the problem.

Tree planters in new subdivisions will oftentimes meet soil quality problems.  The PH level of the soil, and therefore its fertility, is often affected by construction materials and the resulting rubble.  The chemical and petroleum spills which take place during building construction also present additional worries.  If the soil contamination is quite severe, scraping away the contaminated soil and replacing it with good quality topsoil may be the only answer.

One of the critical factors to consider, of course, is your personal taste.  The way that your property’s appearance and ambiance might be improved by the various kinds of trees should be taken into account.  It’s recommended to create a list of all the trees you want or like, and imagine how they would look when planted in your yard or garden.  Think about how the tree you selected would fill in the property over time.  You can make some sketches to help you decide, or if you don’t have confidence in your artistic skills, hire a landscape designer or get some landscape design software.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/choosing-a-tree-to-plant-143060.html

About the Author:
Azlan Irda is a co-founder of   http://www.plantnurserysupplies.com  , where you can get all the nursery supplies at the best prices.  Visit us for all your  http://www.plantnurserysupplies.com  target=”_blank”> nursery needs .

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Proper pruning enhances the beauty of almost any landscape tree and shrub, while improper pruning can ruin or greatly reduce its landscape potential. In most cases, it is better not to prune than to do it incorrectly. In nature, plants go years with little or no pruning, but man can ruin what nature has created. By using improper pruning methods healthy plants are often weakened or deformed. In nature, every plant eventually is pruned in some manner. It may be a simple matter of low branches being shaded by higher ones resulting in the formation of a collar around the base of the branch restricting the flow of moisture and nutrients. Eventually the leaves wither and die and the branch then drops off in a high wind or storm. Often, tender new branches of small plants are broken off by wild animals in their quest for food. In the long run, a plant growing naturally assumes the shape that allows it to make the best use of light in a given location and climate. All one needs to do to appreciate a plant’s ability to adapt itself to a location is to walk into a wilderness and see the beauty of natural growing plants.

Pruning, like any other skill, requires knowing what you are doing to achieve success. The old idea that anyone with a chain saw or a pruning saw can be a landscape pruner is far from the truth. More trees are killed or ruined each year from improper pruning than by pests. Remember that pruning is the removal or reduction of certain plant parts that are not required, that are no longer effective, or that are of no use to the plant. It is done to supply additional energy for the development of flowers, fruits, and limbs that remain on the plant. Pruning, which has several definitions, essentially involves removing plant parts to improve the health, landscape effect, or value of the plant. Once the objectives are determined and a few basic principles understood, pruning primarily is a matter of common sense.

The necessity for pruning can be reduced or eliminated by selecting the proper plant for the location. Plants that might grow too large for the site, are not entirely hardy, or become unsightly with age should be used wisely and kept to a minimum in the landscape plan. Advances in plant breeding and selection in the nursery industry provide a wide assortment of plants requiring little or no pruning. However, even the most suitable landscape plants often require some pruning. The guidelines presented in this publication should be helpful when pruning any plant.

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